Electricity is a wonderful part of our lives, clearly enabling us to do so many of the things we take for granted. Food preparation, entertainment, communication, and so much more are all dependent upon the delivery of electricity. And yet, coming into direct contact with electrical current can severely injure you. In some cases, it can even kill you. Here are some things you can do to keep safe. Some of what we suggest may seem obvious, but we include it here because we believe it’s impossible to over emphasize the importance of safety.

Safety Outdoors

Undoubtedly, first and foremost, stay clear of all power lines, especially those on the ground. Consider a downed wire to be “live” with electrical current going through it.

Take these easy steps to keep yourself from coming into contact with overhead lines:

When you’re using equipment outside, look up to make sure that the equipment isn’t going to collide with the lines.

Do not try to remove anything caught in power lines, not even an animal. Instead, call your power company.

Be especially careful when you’re doing any jobs that require you to use tools which might extend up over your head.

Keep electrical equipment on your property clear of all obstacles such as trees and bushes.

Downed Power Lines

Your power company wants to know about any outages or power lines that are down. Please call it immediately if you experience or see a problem. You can call them 24 hours a day and they’ll send emergency crews out to make repairs.

Inside a Car Touched by a Power Line

Fallen power lines can be extremely dangerous. Never touch a downed power line or anyone who’s in contact with it, and stay away from a vehicle if a power line is touching it.

If a power line touches your vehicle, stay inside and warn others to stay away and have them call the power company.

If you MUST get out of the vehicle for safety reasons, jump clear. Do not touch the vehicle and the ground at the same time.

Electric Lines and Trees

Trees are certainly beautiful and enhance our neighborhoods. However, trees planted in the utility right of way must be tended to so that electric service can be maintained on behalf of all of our citizens.

If your tree encroaches into the utility right of way, it becomes your responsibility to keep it trimmed; otherwise, the City will clear those trees that have not been maintained and threaten the electric service.

Trees that grow into or near the power lines which go to your house are also your responsibility and are only trimmed by the City when they threaten continuity of electric service.

To trim near power lines safely:

Call you power company if there is any question as to whether or not a tree is contacting the electric wires before trimming it. They can move power lines away from trees so that they may be trimmed safely. Call them a couple of days in advance of trimming so that they can coordinate with you.

Never hire unqualified tree trimmers or do the work yourself when trees are contacting high voltage electric wires.

Never cut tree limbs that are touching power lines or that could fall into them.

Electrical Lines and Flying Objects

Don’t let metallic balloons or kites get away. Balloons and kites with shiny, metallic surfaces or strings can be very dangerous if they come into contact with electrical lines. As Benjamin Franklin discovered, they’re excellent conductors of electricity, and, if they get tangled in the line, they can cause a short circuit. This can melt an electrical wire and cause it to fall, resulting in a power outage and possibly severe injury or even death.

Fly kites safely. Kites and electrical lines can be a potentially deadly match. Use common sense when flying a kite; always use dry string, wood, and paper and never use wire or any metallic material. Don’t fly your kite in the rain and never try to retrieve your kite if it gets caught in a power line. Call the power company.

Going Underground

Call before you dig. You need to find out if there are lines in the ground before you dig for any reason, such as planting trees and bushes or installing fences and posts. If you fail to call you could end up in JAIL or worse.

Safety Indoors

Be just as careful with electricity indoors as out. In fact, odds are you and your family are more likely to come into contact with electricity inside your home, so take precautions.

Cover all your electrical outlets and wall switches with cover plates.

Put plastic safety caps in all unused wall outlets to prevent children from pushing objects into the outlet openings.

Know when your wiring needs attention. Power company employees will check equipment when an electrical problem such as flickering lights is reported. If they are unable to find a problem on their end, then the wiring in your house may need to be repaired. Find a licensed professional to check your home’s electric panel, circuit breakers, fuses, and internal wiring.

Do not use damaged or brittle electrical cords. They can cause shorts, shocks, or fires and should be replaced.

To avoid damage, remove cords from outlets by pulling the plug, not the cord itself. Never attach a cord to any surface with nails or staples, which can break the insulation. Also, kinking, twisting, binding, or walking on cords can harm them.

Never remove the third prong from a three-pronged plug. The third prong has been included to safely ground your electrical appliance. Most power tools and major appliances have three-prong plugs for safety. If you don’t have three-hole outlets, adapters are available at your local hardware store.

Protect yourself from shock with Ground Fault Circuit Interrupters (GFCI’s). These special outlets can help prevent serious injury by detecting electrical faults and shutting off electricity to the outlet when necessary.

Michael Del Greco is a New Jersey Home Inspector, owner of Accurate Inspections, Inc. who is a Certified, Licensed ASHI Member performing home inspections in Bergen, Essex, Passaic and Morris Counties

LICENSES

New Jersey Home Inspector #GI121 (2003, first year licensing was offered).

Credentialed Wood Destroying Insect Inspector (2001).

Radon Measurement Technician (1993 - present).

Commercial Pesticide Applicator (1993 - present).

Department of Housing and Urban Development Plan Reviewer/Consultant and 203(k) Loan Consultant (inactive).

PROFESSIONAL MEMBERSHIPS

American Society of Home Inspectors #102273 (1996 - present).

Independent Home Inspectors of North America (2002 - present).

EXPERIENCE

COMMITTEE MEMBER: Appointed to the State of New Jersey Home Inspection Advisory Committee (Licensing Board), (2004- present).

INSTRUCTOR, “Home Inspector Licensing,” Morris County School of Technology, Denville, New Jersey (2002 - present). Instruct students in preparation for National Home Inspector Licensing Examination. Teach 10 hours per week (300 hour course) in all areas of home inspection, including roofing, air conditioning, heating, plumbing, structure, electric, interior, exterior, reporting, professional ethics, standards of practice, New Jersey state regulations.

INSTRUCTOR, “For Home Inspector Continuing Professional Competency Courses” by the State of New Jersey (2004- present).

OWNER/INSPECTOR, Accurate Inspections, West Paterson, New Jersey (1993 - present). Own and operate home inspection business. Provide home inspections throughout Bergen and Passaic counties, as well as parts of Morris and Essex counties. Inspected over 5,500 homes since 1993. Promote, publicize, and market business to clients and lawyers.

CONSTRUCTION PROJECT MANAGER, Crest Management and Development, Clifton, New Jersey, (1986 - 1993). Coordinate construction of single and multi-family dwellings as well as construction and renovation of commercial and industrial buildings in northern New Jersey.

Chainsaws provide many years of service for very little upkeep. Taking the time to service your chainsaw will help ensure that your equipment will not let you down. For safety reasons, make sure you only service your chainsaw when it is fully cooled, with the spark plug disconnected. If you are working with an electric chainsaw make sure it is unplugged first of all. You should also wear gloves and protection for your eyes.

For safe and effective operation having correct chain tension is necessary. As the chain wears, significant stretching will occur. After five to ten cuts a new chain may need to be readjusted. Separation from the guide bar or binding into the wood can occur if the chain is loose. Premature chain and guide bar wear will be caused by a tight chain. A chain that is well adjusted will move easily and smoothly when pulled by a gloved hand. Binding or sagging by the chain should not occur. The chain tension should be checked and adjusted if needed before every use.

A manual or automatic chain oiling system is used in most chainsaws. Friction and heat builds between the chain and guide bar without oil. The oil also helps the individual links in the chain operate smoothly at high speeds. Check the oiling system prior to every use.

Tighten all of the screws and fasteners. This process should be done before every use. Before using your chainsaw each time you need to inspect the fuel system.

After every 10 hours of use you need to clean or replace the air filter. Byreplacing the air filter on a regular basis your chainsaw will be able to run cooler and use less fuel.

The sprocket tip should be lubricated after every 10 hours of use. You will know that lubrication is complete when a small amount of grease appears at the edge of the guide bar near the sprocket.

For every 10 hours of use the guide bar should be turned. Flip the guide bar over to promote an even wear pattern on the bottom and top of the bar. Inspect the spark plug after every 10 hours of use and cleaned or replaced as necessary.

For every 10 hours of use the spark arrester screen should be inspected and cleaned and replaced when necessary. The spark arrester screen prevents sparks from leaving the exhaust port and hurting the operator or falling on flammable materials.

The fuel filter should be replaced after every 20 hours of use. Poor
performance can result if the filter becomes clogged.

To ensure the maximum performance perform the following procedures as needed to prolong the life of your chainsaw. Take your chainsaw to an authorized dealer if the carburetor needs adjustment. The chain blades should be sharpened periodically as they become dull.

About the Author

Keith Kingston is a professional web publisher, offering information on chainsaws. You can visit his website at http://www.4-chainsaws.com/

When spring comes and the ground is thawed, it is time to start
planting your rose garden. Roses have been a cherished
aphrodisiac since biblical times. They have been around for over
3000 years, yet they still hold a particular mystery and
fascination, not to mention the fact that they just look and
smell good!

One of the most important rules of growing roses is to plant the
rose bush in an area that receives around 4 to 6 hours of
sunlight every day.

It is preferable not to plant too many trees or other plants
around the rose bush because most of these are likely to either
mix with the rose or stifle it’s growth. If you are replacing an
old rose bush, approximately 1 1/2 cubic feet of old soil should
be removed, and fresh soil added to replace it. When positioning
your rose in the garden or landscape, consider the growth habit
of the rose.

For example, place climbers and ramblers along fences,
trellises, or next to arches or pergolas. This location offers
them free range of growth, and optimal potential for the
showiest blooms.

Roses also look beautiful in island garden beds interplanted
with perennials. Miniature roses make great edging plants in
front of their taller cousins. Planted singly, shrub roses make
excellent specimen plants or they can be clustered to make a
flowering hedge. You can also use them to camouflage unsightly
garden objects.

Dig a hole large enough for the root mass and loosen the bottom
of the hole. You should add bone meal, which is a slow acting
source of phosphorus that leads to healthy root growth in the
rose plant.

Then the plant should be placed in the hole carefully and the
hole refilled with soil, covering the roots properly. Before
making the final covering, water the rose plant and let it
absorb the water. After this, water the plant more and mound the
soil about 6 inches high. The dome will keep the stems from
drying out until the plant is rooted. Gradually remove the
excess soil as the leaves open.

Special care should be taken with the planting depth. It varies
according to the climate you live in.

If you live in a colder area, plant a bit deeper and consult
with the people growing roses in your area. If you are buying
potted roses, you should plant them about 1 inch deeper than
their potted level.

The best time to plant roses varies depending on the winter
temperature. Where temperatures don’t drop below -10 degrees F;
either fall or spring planting is satisfactory. If you live in
an area where winter temperatures go below -10 degrees F, spring
planting is preferred. Plants should be planted in a dormant
condition if purchased bare root, but container grown plants may
be planted throughout the growing season.

Spacing of the rose plant is highly influenced by the
temperature. In regions where winters are severe, the rose plant
does not grow as large as in mild climates. Taking this into
consideration, hybrid tea roses should be spaced 1 1/2 to 3 feet
apart. Large vigorous growers, such as hybrid perpetuals need 3
to 5 feet of space, and the climbers need from 8 to 10 feet of
space.

If the winter temperature is below 10 degrees F, roses can grow
healthy if proper care is taken. The gardener must prepare for
that cold, wet reality as he revels in the summer air
conditioning.

In zones 7 and colder, the roses enjoy their last fertilization
of the season by August 15th to limit the emergence of new rose
canes, which will almost certainly not survive the winter.

Additional information and resources related to this article can
be found at: HREF="http://www.garden-source.com/archives/2005/05/26/how-and-wh
en-to-plant-roses/" rel="nofollow">http://www.garden-source.com/archives/2005/05
/26/how-and-when-to-plant-roses/

Garden Tractor Tires Require Good Care

The following article describes the garden tractor tires,
constructional features, maintenance, and care instructions
specifically for garden tractor tires. It also discusses the
storage of garden tractor during winter months when the tractors
are not being used.

Garden Tractor Tire Design

You would have noted that the garden tractor have different
diameters on the front and rear tires. The front tires are
smaller and the rear ones are large. The tractors are front
wheel driven and this is the reason for the smaller front tires.
The ribs on front tires are generally straight and rear tires
are cross-ribbed. The tractor tires do not have to pump water as
the truck tires. In fact, they are required to work in
waterlogged area effectively.

Weight Distribution In Tractor Tires

The load distribution in tractor tires is generally 40 % on
front tires and 60 % on rear tires. In order to avoid the
compaction of earth below the rear tires, the tires are made
large so that the additional load that they carry compared to
the front tires do not compact the earth below it. The tires
have large ribs so that they cut through the earth instead of
compacting it.

Garden Tractor Tires Come As Original Equipment

Your garden tractor tire would have come to you as original
equipment along with you tractor. When you change the tires,
make sure that the same or equivalent tires are used. This will
ensure that the performance from your garden tractor remains as
original.

Since lawn tractor tires are almost the most used part of these
gardening machines, you should be aware of a proper care and
maintenance. One of the most important things to have in mind
when using tractors is keeping the accurate inflation as well as
the terrain where they work must be slippery an uneven. Apart
from these basic tips, there are so many that all gardeners
should know before start working with this powerful machine,
that could last a lifetime, when it’s maintained properly.

It wasn’t too long ago that no serious rosarian would even consider having a potted rose on their property except for, maybe, last minute emergencies where they had run out of space but couldn’t resist buying just one more plant.

Times have changed and potted roses have a place in the lives of condo and apartment dwellers, city slickers who live in areas where there isn’t a tree in sight, and anyone who has a spot on their lawn or garden in need of the beauty that only a rose can deliver.

Not all roses are good candidates for growing in pots. The following varieties have been found to do best. Feel free to try any variety that you want, even climbers, and see how they make out.

All that Jazz

Ballerina

Blush Noisette

Bonica

Cecile Brunner

Clotilde Soupert

Green Rose

Gruss an Aachen

Hannah Gordon

Hermosa

Katharina Zeimet

Mrs. Oakley Fisher

Peace

Perfume Delight

Precious Platinum

Sea Foam

Sexy Rexy

Souvenir de la Malmaison

Stanwell Perpetual

The Fairy

Valentine

Whiskey Mac

Planting potted roses is a relatively easy task as long as you do your planting in the Spring after any chance of a frost is long past. If you live in climate zone 6, or warmer, then hold off planting until autumn when the ravages of July and August are far behind.

When you’re ready to plant, choose an appropriate sized container with drainage holes. Make sure that the container has enough room for your plant to grow without having to transplant frequently.

Fill the container with garden soil that has some compost or organic fertilizer mixed in.

Dig a hole that’s a bit bigger than the root ball, knock the rose loose from its shipping container, and plant it.

Dig a shallow trench or moat around the base of the plant to hold water, and water well.

Potted roses are susceptible to the same diseases as garden roses are, and they require feeding, pruning and all of the other rose care basics. Potted roses aren’t less work or responsibility for you, they are simply more space-saving than a regular rose garden is. Don’t treat your roses as if they were ordinary potted plants or you will lose them.

People are constantly asking if they can grow potted plants indoors. The answer is: “maybe, but it’s a risky proposition”. That’s because roses need high humidity and a lot of direct sunlight. High humidity conditions do not usually exist inside of most airconditioned homes these days. However, if you live in a hot, steamy area, and you don’t have air conditioning, then you can probably get away with it as long as you pick a sunny spot.

Of all the rose varieties that are likely to survive indoors, miniature roses are your best bet. Miniature roses are actual roses which have been bred to grow into small and compact plants with equally small flowers. They do very well in pots and are quite beautiful.
About the Author

Angie Noack is a home and garden strategist with a sharp edge for technology. With her unique ability to combine these two skills, she’s able to help gardeners save time and increase productivity. You can find her online at http://www.cowboyrose.com.

Thinking about building a Log Cabin? This is how your determine
your foundation

There are at least three types of foundation that may be used
with many of the popular cottage plans available today. These
are: a concrete slab on grade; a full foundation wall (or
basement) around the outside perimeter of the building; and a
pier type of foundation. Most plan drawings show pier
foundations, because they are usually the cheapest to build and
the easiest for the amateur craftsman to construct.

If you have a level piece of property on which to build, you may
want to use a concrete slab. It is fairly simple to make. After
you have selected the cottage or camp you wish to build, refer
to the foundation plan that is shown with it. Get the over-all
dimensions firmly in mind.

On your site clear away the brush and lay out the lines of the
building with strings and batter boards. The next step is to dig
a trench about 12 inches deep and 12 inches wide around the
perimeter of the building. If you hit some large rode, leave it.
Taper the inside edge of the trench as shown. By cutting the
outside edge of the trench square, you can use it as part of the
form for the beam edge of your slab.

While you’re trying to get the crimp out of your back, have
someone call the local supply yard and have them send you enough
gravel or crushed rock to lay a 6-inch bed under the slab. The
following table tells you how to figure how much grave! or
crushed rock you will need.

At this point, while you are waiting for the delivery of the
material, you will want to get all the rough plumbing in place.
This means that all the pipes which will be permanently buried
in the slab should be put in place, connected, and tested.

When the rock or gravel has been delivered, borrow the
neighbors’ wheelbarrow and start spreading it. The finished bed,
in cross section, will look like the picture at the side. Don’t
stop now, you’ve only begun. Get enough 15-pound roofing felt to
cover the slab area. Cover the gravel area with this, lapping
the edges about 3 inches. You’re doing this, I might add, to
keep the ground dampness from coming up into your finished slab.

Around the outer edges of your cottage build a form as shown in
the picture at the side. I assume that you didn’t knock the
walls of your trench in; if you did, be sure to clean them out
again. You are now ready to lay the reinforcing down. The usual
procedure is to use wire mesh weighing 40 pounds per 100 square
feet.

If you can’t get it, the best substitute that I have seen is
heavy turkey wire (welded type). Roll out the mesh. Put some
small rocks under it so that when the concrete is poured, the
mesh will be in the slab. Along the bottom of the trench use two
%-inch reinforcing bars. You’re actually building a concrete
beam around the perimeter of the building.

You are now ready for the big pour. By this time you will
probably be willing to call for transit mix. When you ask for
this prepared mix, tell them you want the kind that reaches a
minimum compressive strength of 2,000 pounds per square inch in
28 days. If you are going to mix your own concrete, use I part
portland cement, 2 parts sand, 4 parts coarse aggregate, and
enough water to make it sloppy.

The actual water content should not exceed 7|/2 gallons per bag
of cement. The table will help you to figure how much you will
need. The thickness of the concrete slab should be a minimum of
3 inches. After you have the framing up, you will want to add
one more inch of smooth concrete for your final finish (I part
cement, 3 parts sand).

You can also add color to this batch if you don’t like the
natural gray of the concrete. There you are. Except that you
should also put some 6-inch stove bolts along the outer edge of
the slab, about 8 feet on center, starting roughly I foot from
the corner, to fasten your sill. If you are going to use the
cottage year-round and are building in the northern states,
insulate the outside perimeter with Fiberglas boards.

If you use the slab described, be sure that the soil is porous.
Heavy clay or stiff soil will require the building of foundation
walls to the frost line to prevent heaving.

About the Author

About the Author: Jack Hudson is a writer for
http://www.log-cabin-plans-n-kits.com and
http://www.best-house-n-home-plans.com/. These two sites work
collectively as a resouce for the planning and building of log
cabins as well as choosing from different house plans. Visit one
of these sites for informative articles as well as free TIPS for
building a log home or choosing a house plan.

Folding screens can add elegance and style to any décor. So just how to you build a folding screen? It really is relatively simple!

Well I found building a folding screen fairly easy and I’m certainly no handyman.

Firstly, to build a folding screen you need three interior shutters or panelled doors. Typically these will be light and not too wide. If you buy ones too heavy you’ll find it hard to move the folding screen around the house. You will also need six hinges - make sure they match your décor! And a toolkit, of course.

To build a folding screen you next need to glue or nail 1/2-inch or 3/4-inch rope molding around the front borders of each panel. Once you’ve done that stain or paint the doors in your desired shade or colour. You can even do different colors or patterns on each side if you like! Gild the molding for a fancy look.

Allow the doors to completely dry. The next step in building a folding screen is to attach the hinges. Measure one quarter, one half and three quarters of the height of each door and mark the edge. You then need to attach the hinges at these marks. The first set of three should be installed on the front side and the second set should go on the back. This allows you to fold the screen up to the size of one panel.

And viola! You now know how to build a folding screen! Time to get building!

Legal note: I’m not a handyman and if you follow my intructions and build a folding screen you are doing so at your own risk. This is meant for entertainment only and you really need to consult a qualified joiner or handyman for your folding screen advice.

About the author:

Phil Wiley is the author of the best selling book Mini Site Profits www.minisiteprofits.comand writes the free weekly Letter from Phil at www.ozemedia.com

Read About

Proper pruning of your backyard grapevines is essential to maintain vine size, shape, and yield of the grapes. If you don’t prune your vines, they will become unruly, tangled messes. Fruit ripeness will suffer. Overproduction of the vine may lead to premature death. It is also one of the harder things to visualize but one of the easier things to accomplish for the home gardener.

Pruning is performed in the early spring while the vine is still dormant. This is done in February, March, or early April depending upon when the grapevines generally come out of dormancy and bud out.

Pruning the grapevine and training the vine go hand-in-hand. You must decide the way you want to train the vine in order to prune it correctly. Vines that “droop” should be trained to a top wire of about 6 feet. Canes are then pruned and trained outward from the middle on each side of the trunk. As the new shoots grow, they droop on each side of this high pruned wire, naturally, taking in account of their habit of growth. Concord, and other native American varieties are typical of those varieties that droop downward naturally.

Varieties that grow upright are trained to a low wire of about 3 feet and allowed to grow upward according to their natural growth habit. These varieties need several wires above the trained canes in order that the upright growing shoots have something to attach to. Often, you will need to tie the growing shoots to these wires to keep the grown going up and to prevent wind damage. European grapes, V. vinifera, and many hybrid varieties (crosses between the European grape and American species) fall into this category.

Whether trained to a high wire or to a low wire, the pruning techniques are the same. The amount of one-year old, fruitful wood to be left after pruning is dependent upon the amount of vegetation produced during the previous growing season. Usually, around 90-95% of last year’s growth is pruned off. The wood left is dependent upon the variety, how vigorous last years growth was, whether the variety over produces or under produces, and how old the vine is all enter into how you will prune it.

Grapes bear fruit on one year old wood. Thus when you prune the vine you will be leaving one year old buds to produce the fruit clusters this year. Much of what will be removed is two year wood with attached canes from last year’s growth (that won’t be needed this year) and excess one year old canes. When pruning you will be trying to balance the growth of the vine based upon how it grew and bore fruit last year.

Excessively vigorous vines that overbore their fruit last year will be pruned with more buds as this will de vigor the growth and balance the vine’s growth this year. Low vigor vines will be left with fewer buds to invigorate their growth this year.

The two methods of pruning grapevines are short “spurs” and long “canes”. The idea behind spur and cane pruning is the same. They differ in which of the buds are the most fruitful on the particular variety you are pruning. Varieties where the bottom buds are fruitful are spur pruned. Varieties where the bottom buds aren’t fruitful are generally cane pruned.

Spur pruned vines are trained to heads and cordons. The difference here is that head trained vines are pruned to a couple to several spurs close in to the main trunk of the vine. Cordon trained vines have arms extending out from the trunk, on each side, with several spurs generated along the main frame of the arms. Either way of training has spurs of two to three buds each.

Cane pruning involves leaving at least one long cane of one-year old wood on each side of the trunk. The number of buds to leave depends on the variety and how much growth of the vine occurred during the last growing season. Usually, 7-12 buds are left on each cane. But this is relative. And that’s where pruning becomes an art. After several years you will gain a “feel” of how many buds to leave based upon its performance in the prior growing season.

Besides the cane that is left, a small, two-bud spur is left for next year’s cane and spur. That’s why this method is often referred to as cane and spur pruning. The spur that is left at pruning time is known as a renewal spur. It gives rise to next year’s cane and renewal spur.

Each year the job of pruning will become easier. You will soon begin to understand what is happening as you watch your vine grow during the summer. Your visualization of how the vine is supposed to look each year will grow. This will make the pruning each spring go smoothly.

The tools used to prune your grapevines are hand pruners, loppers, and small handsaws. Select the appropriate pruning tool to remove the wood as cleanly as possible and reduce unnecessary injury to the vine. Hand pruners are used to remove one year old wood. Older wood requires the use of loppers. Sometimes old, unfruitful trunks need to be removed. This is where the handsaw comes in.

Learning the art of grapevine pruning takes time and practice. You can contact your local county Ag Extension agent or Agricultural University for bulletins on grapevine pruning. These grapevine pruning bulletins have drawings and pictures of what you are trying to accomplish and will make your pruning easier. Just make sure that you prune your grapevines every year to maintain their size and shape, and to maximize the fruit production and overall fruit quality.

About the author:

Jim Bruce has been growing grapes since the mid-seventies under a range of growing conditions. His Rist Canyon Vineyards is a research project to aid others in growing grapes. More information can be found at http://www.ristcanyonvineyards.com

A deck is an extension of your home’s living space and where you will spend much of your time during the summer months. Consequently, it needs to be treated and cared for as much as your home’s inside rooms.

Most important to the care of your deck is regularly sealing it. This is particularly true if you want your deck to maintain the natural color of the wood.

Sealing a deck is critical in order to preserve the life and look of the wood. The sealant preserves the beauty of the natural wood by protecting it from both water and sun damage.

When to Apply the Deck Sealant

In order to preserve the natural wood look for many years, I typically apply the sealant every year. Also, I usually apply it in late summer/early fall as I live in New England. I do this because of the concern of snow lying on the deck for long periods of time during the winter months. My concern is in the acidity of the water in the snow. By putting on a sealant just prior to snow season, I can provide peak protection against the prolonged damaging effects of the acid contained in the water. In hotter climates, where there is less snow, I would suggest applying the deck sealer in late spring.

Clean the deck prior to Sealing

First, remove all of the deck furniture off of the deck.

Prior to sealing it is then best to power wash the deck and let it thoroughly dry. You may need to use a stiff bristly brush to get off any material that is not being removed by the power washer. Pine pitch frequently requires the services of this tool. There are also a variety of products offered by sealant manufactures that can also assist in the deck sealant preparation.

After power washing it may take 24-48 hours, or even longer, for the deck to thoroughly dry, pending weather conditions. Make sure the deck is completely dry prior to applying the sealant. Otherwise the sealant may not be appropriately absorbed into the wood’s surface.

Once the deck is dry, and you are about ready to begin sealing, use a leaf blower to remove any debris that may have fallen onto the deck’s surface since you power washed it. If you do not have a leaf blower, than simply sweep the deck.

Sealing the deck

First, the deck sealer should not be applied if the temperature is below 50 degrees Fahrenheit and if rain is forecasted in the next 24 hours. Otherwise the sealant may not absorb properly, nor dry properly.

Using a brush apply the sealant around all the deck edges and posts. Once the edging is complete, use a sprayer, brush or roller to apply the sealant to the deck surface. Make sure that the sealant is firmly pressed into the wood surface to maximize the penetration of the sealant into the wood.

Typically only one coat is recommended by most deck sealers.

Though most manufactures suggest the deck is ready for walking on after 24 hours, I would recommend waiting a little longer if the weather has not been ideal for drying conditions.

Once the deck is dry, return the deck furniture and enjoy the beauty of your deck for another year.

About the Author

Me_Donovan@comcast.net

http://www.homeadditionplus.com

http://www.homeaddition.blogspot.com

Over the past 20+ years Mr. Donovan has been involved with building homes and additions to homes. His projects have included: building a vacation home, building additions and garages on to existing homes, and finishing unfinished homes.

There are many ways to scent your home using perfumes and herbs. In today’s world, you will find many gadgets on the market that are designed to make your home smell like scented flower fields or warm ocean winds.

The main problem with using modern products like air fresheners and incense is that the fragrance fades quickly. Air fresheners also put chemicals in the air that those with sensitive lungs may find disagreeable.

There are many alternative ways to scent a home where the fragrance lasts for weeks, months or years…that are not only more affordable but that also smell more wonderful.

One method would be to take squares of cloth and make little pillows about 4 inches square stuffed with herbs or nicely scented potpourri. Lavender buds make wonderful smelling sachets, as do dried citrus rinds and dried flowers.

Place these small pillows wherever you would like the scent to linger…in the bathroom, closet or under your sofa.

You can also make nice decorations of plaster of paris to hang in your closets, by your windows or in your car. To do this, purchase candy molds, essential oils (or any scented item like perfume or potpourri) and small twine. Mix the scent of your choice into your plaster of paris, pour into your molds, then take pieces of twin and tie the ends into a knot to create a loop. Press the knot into your plaster so that the twine will stay in place once the plaster dries.

A nice twist for this method would be to mold your plaster into small oval Tupperware bowls then stack them neatly in baskets throughout your home; these are known as scented rocks and make attractive dcor.

A nice way to get the scent of roses in your home would be to make rosewater soaked papers, and use these as stuffing inside of your scented pillows instead of dried florals or herbs.

To do this, simmer a cup of rose petals with one cup of water for 3 to 4 hours until the water is strongly scented. If the water evaporates during the simmering, just add a bit more.

Once the concentration is strong, strain the mixture, then place strips of paper in the water and simmer until most of the water is evaporated. Next, lay your paper somewhere to dry, such as laying them on a towel or hanging them from a clothes hanger. Once dry, tear into little pieces and place in your sachets. Although the scent may not be as strong as you would like, once your pillows have been made and sit in place for a time, you will notice a nice, slight rose scent in your home. You simply need to give your home time to warm the papers, which releases the scent.

You may also use these papers in your vacuum cleaner. Place the strips in an envelope and place the envelop in your vacuums bag. As you vacuum your home, you will notice a nice rose scent in the air.

About the author:

Cassandra Stinchcombe Find more information on how to stimulate your sense of smell, release stress and increase energy. EnVisionAromatherapy.com offers a large variety of items, including gift sets, candles, diffusers, herbal packs, essential oils, and bath and body products. 100% guarantee on all items. http://www.EnVisionAromatherapy.com