One of the most popular herbs is Ocimum basilicum commonly called sweet basil. Often called the ‘king of herbs,’ basil can be grown indoors or out. Sweet basil has inch-long, oval-pointed, dark green leaves and a clove-pepperish odour and taste. Sweet basil makes a handsome, bushy small plant, growing to a foot or more indoors. A purple-leafed variety, ‘Dark Opal’ is decorative, makes a lovely houseplant, and is equally useful in cookery. Do not let basil bloom, or it will go to seed. Instead, pinch out the plant tops and they will grow into compact little bushes.

Basil is an annual and grows 12 – 24 inches (30 – 60 cm) as the height varies according to the variety. Cultivation requirements for growing basil: full sun; light, well-drained, nutrient rich, slightly acidic soil; frequent watering (don’t waterlog); will not tolerate cold; pinch off flower stalks for a longer season of leaf production.

Basil can be easily started from seed or can be brought indoors at the end of the growing season. If you are bringing basil indoors, choose the most robust plants. Before the first frost, dig them out of the garden and pot them up in fresh potting soil. Basil can also be grown in pots outdoors and treated the same way when bringing them in for winter. Check for insects and if there is an infestation, spray with a soap and water spray. Gradually reverse the hardening off process by keeping the pots out of direct sunlight for about a week. The plants will become acclimatised to the lower light conditions they will experience indoors. Bring them inside and provide the conditions they need to continue growing.

Basil requires at least five hours of sunlight a day to stay healthy and flavourful. If you are growing basil on the windowsill, turn regularly to ensure every side receives light. Don’t let basil leaves touch the cold glass. Basil grows even better under fluorescent lights in the winter. Hang the lights 6 inches (15 cm) from plants and leave lights on for 14 hours a day.

There are many cultivars of basil. Two that are particularly popular are: O. basilicum ‘Dark Opal’- only herb to win the All American Award of Excellence – can be used the same as sweet basil; O. basilicum ‘Citriodorum’- strong lemon scent – nice for tea and with chicken and fish.

In the garden, basil can be planted with tomatoes as it helps to overcome both insects and disease. Basil also repels flies and mosquitoes. In the kitchen, use basil in tomato dishes (both raw and cooked), pesto, sauces, salad dressings, soups, fish dishes, mushroom dishes, egg and rice dishes, mixed with other herbs, omelettes, pasta dishes, vegetables such as carrots, eggplant, cabbage, squash, and zucchini. Use fresh leaves in salads and add fresh leaves to vinegar and extra virgin olive oil. Basil can be used fresh, frozen, or dried. Use basil with discretion, as it is one of the few herbs that increase in flavour when heated.

Gwen Nyhus Stewart, B.S.W., M.G., H.T., is an educator, freelance writer, garden consultant, and author of the book The Healing Garden: A Place Of Peace – Gardening For The Soil, Gardening For The Soul and the booklet Non-toxic Alternatives For Everyday Cleaning And Gardening Products. She owns the website Gwen’s Healing Garden where you will find lots of free information about gardening for the soil and gardening for the soul. To find out more about the books and subscribe to her free Newsletter visit www.gwenshealinggarden.ca

Gwen Nyhus Stewart © 2004 – 2006. All rights reserved.

Lamp shades are one of the best ways to add detail and decoration to your home. The lamp shades you choose can add elegance or a fun touch. Lamp shades are easy to find and widely available. If you can’t find what you really like you can even have them custom made, or make a fun one yourself. Lamp shades are a great way to add to your home.

First, what is available in lamp shades. There are many varieties, colors, designs, shapes, and details available in lamp shades. True, that going to a local home improvement store may have a limited selection of lamp shades, but that is not the only place to look to find the best lamp shade for your home. If you are looking for glass lamp shade or chandelier lamp shades you may have to look a little harder. A lot of lamps come with glass lamp shades. And to find a replacement may be more expensive then purchasing a new one. But, lamp shades are available in glass and fabric.

Check out your local lighting store to find a great selection of lamp shades. Here you will find everything from plain fabric lamp shades to cute designs for a child’s room to Victorian lamp shades. And, if you still can’t find the right lamp shade for your home, you can have them custom made through one of these stores or a local crafter. If you are ambitions and have the talent, you can even design your own lamp shade using fabric, a little sewing or glue and fabric. Perhaps this is out of your realm of talent. Surely you will be able to find a crafter willing to do the project.

Another place to find great lamp shades is the internet and all of the websites of crafters and designers. You will be able to purchase new or gently used items from auctions houses like Ebay. But, you can also search manufacturer’s websites to see what they have to offer as well. The internet is a great way to find the right lamp shade for your home.

So, with so many ways to find the right lamp shade, it should be a fund adventure to find one that fits your home, your room, and your tastes. Glass lamp shades or fabric lamp shades are available. Chandelier lamp shades or Victorian lamp shades are available for your choosing. So, the next time you are in the market for a great lamp shade, check out all of these great resources at your fingertips.

About the author:

Mike Yeager
Publisher
http://www.my-lamps-4me.com/

Plants can be used for many uses, and the Mosquito Plant, or “Citrosa” is a cross between the Grass of China ( which produces citronella) and a scented geranium which releases its scent into the air. This amazing feat was accomplished with gene splicing. The result is a scented geranium which grows rather large (up to 5 feet) and repels insects and is not only harmless to people, but has a pleasant citronella scent. The mosquito plant can be kept outdoors on patios or indoors as a houseplant. It can also be kept small by continual pinching.

This is an interesting plant that can be wintered over as a houseplant. There are just a few things to keep in mind:

1) give it as much light as possible. Avoid direct afternoon sun. If the new growth turns gray and soft, move it into more light.

2) Plant in large tubs or in the ground when you plant outside. Morning sun is OK, but just remember to keep it out of direct afternoon light. It should not go below 45 degrees

3) Keep soil on the dry side as too much water leads to rot.

4) Fertilize every two weeks with a good all-purpose feeder.

Remember that pinching new shoots will promote branching to shape the plant. Brushing lightly against other foliage will release more scent. It may take up to 24 hours to see results with insects.

In 1985, Briscoe White opened The Growers Exchange in an abandoned Texaco station on a busy urban street corner in Richmond, Virginia. The facility has grown over the years, and is now 5 distinct growing environments with 5 acres under cover. Briscoe has over 25 years of gardening experience. For further information on gardening products or gardening tips please contact Briscoe White at bwhite@thegrowersexchange.com

This article is designed to help Buckingham Township Pa.
residents select plants and shrubs for hedges. Not all plants
that are suitable are listed here but most common and easy to
raise ones are listed.

Hedges are one of the major components of your landscape.
Hedges define the limits of your landscape and thus should be
the starting point in your landscape design. Before selecting
plants, you should carefully consider their landscape
requirements and the characteristics of the plants. For example,
deciduous plants drop their leaves in the fall and are effective
screens mainly during the growing season. Evergreens provide
good screening all year. Gardeners considering a sheared, formal
hedge should realize that they may need to be pruned (sheared)
several times a year to remain attractive. In comparison, an
informal, natural hedge is relatively low maintenance. Select
shrubs that grow to the desired height. Planting a tall-maturing
shrub where a short, informal hedge is desired creates work.
Many landscaping problems are prevented by selecting the correct
planting material.

Our plants are well suited for many hedge plantings. We sell
many types of plants and shrubs which can work well as a natural
privacy boarder. Bare-root material is the most economical type
of nursery stock when planting a hedge. However, bare-root
plants are rather small. For the beginner, bare root is the
hardest type of plant to grow out. Container-grown and balled
and burlapped plants are larger, but are more expensive. You
will have better luck with potted and B&B stock…The added cost
will be worth it. Most B&B and potted stock can be planted
whenever the ground is not frozen as long as you have the
knowledge to help the plants along.

Plant spacing is determined by the plant species and hedge type.
Most plantings will range from a spacing of a foot or two to a
couple of feet. Many people will plant the shrubs and fail to
prune them back hard. Pruning generally will make the shrubs
more dense and compact.

The following is a list of shrubs suitable for hedges that we
sell:

Amur maple Acer ginnala 15 to 18 feet natural Barberries
Berberis species 1 to 5 feet natural or sheared Boxwood Species
2 to 4 feet natural or sheared Redosier dogwood (D) Cornus
sericea 8 to 10 feet natural Burning bush (D) Euonymus alatus 6
to 15 feet natural Junipers (E) 8 to 15 feet natural Beautybush
(D) Kolkwitzia amabilis 8 to 10 feet natural Spirea VanHoutte
(D) 6 to 8 feet natural Lilacs (D) 4 to 15 feet natural Yews (E)
Taxus species 2 to 10 feet natural or sheared Arborvitae (E) 3
to 15+ feet natural or sheared Arrowwood viburnum (D) Viburnum
dentatum 6 to 8 feet natural American Cranberry (D) 8 to 12 feet
natural

When you visit Highland Hill Farm at 5275 W Swamp Rd. (rt. 313)
Fountainville Pa. we will be happy to show you these plants. You
can also go to our web site http://www.seedlingsrus.com

The Old Way

Once upon a time if you wanted outdoor lights, you had to assemble the lights, dig ditches, run wires, find and outlet for the transformer(these were low voltage systems using 12 volts), connect the light connections to the main cable, cover the ditches and set back to enjoy the fruits of your labors. If there was a sidewalk or driveway involved, then the work had just begun, trying to get your main cable across these obstacles. They worked great until the bulbs started getting older, then they would fade a little, burn out or their connection would corrode and need occasional cleaning and reinserting.

The New Way

Solar Outdoor lighting has made improvements by leaps and bounds over the last decade. The efficiency of the solar panels including the reduction in their size coupled with the quality of the batteries they charge has made the purchase of solar lights very economical. In the beginning, they only had one color, bluish white. They have now developed an amber color which is less artificial looking.

They can be purchased individually or in sets. If you only want to light up a feature in your yard such as a tree, you can purchase the light to do it. If you want to light up the walk to your front door, you can purchase a set to do this.

Installing outdoor lights has never been easier. All you need to do is decide where you want to install a light, stick it in the ground and you are done. If you decide you don’t like that location, just pull it up and move it. No wiring to fuss with or move, no timer to set and no connections to worry about.

Overall: For the person with a lot of time to spend on installing all the components involved with the old system and the maintenance they require, low voltage systems are less expensive and dependable to a point. For the person who is busy, likes instant gratification, and may want to change the location of their lights to gain different effects, solar lights are the way to go.

John is the owner/administrator for rfunstuff.com, a home and garden product site.

http://www.rfunstuff.com

Transformed From An Indiana Farm Boy With NO Green Thumbs Into A Knowledgeable “Backyard Gardener” In Less Than 7 Days

Hi there! Are you a gardening disaster, unable to keep even the most vicious of WEEDS growing? Do you have two “left” thumbs—yearning to become two “green” thumbs with regards to YOUR OWN successful backyard garden? Yes? Good, because that’s what I want to share with you. . . how I knew NOTHING about the basics of lawn maintenance and gardening, and transformed myself into a knowledgeable “backyard gardener” that has begun the process of cultivating my own little “patch of Heaven” to enjoy with my wife and kids.

How about you?

Are you looking to learn the basics? Want to revamp your existing, lifeless and limp garden into a vibrant and flourishing haven? What about that dream of always having your very own vegetable garden? Are you thinking of quitting to soon, when it comes to learning how to cultivate your own “homemade” fruits that you loving would be eager to share with friends and neighbors?

The starting point is to determine the finish line for you.

In the words of Stephen Covey–“Begin with the end in mind!” It’s okay to give yourself permission to dream a little bit. When’s the last time you walked around the family “homestead”, whether that’s a real acre or more of raw land or maybe just a small patch of dirt off the apartment patio?

I have learned the basics on a variety of garden topics and have started to turn my knowledge into action with my own backyard!

Let’s just be upfront that NO ONE can become a master gardener without years of experience and increasing their knowledge base. BUT, as is my case, I can guarantee that YOU can raise yourself to a “backyard gardener” standard by absorbing the experience and knowledge of other successful gardeners!

I am doing it—you can too!

Let me summarize some of what I have been able to learn and apply in my own life by giving a little demonstration of my own “before and after” knowledge:

THE BEFORE PICTURE:

Grass & Lawn care—Grass is what the “yard” is made up of. I know there are a couple of different kinds, only one I can think off of the top of my head is “crab grass”. Also know how to use a lawn mower and a “weed eater” to trim along the driveway and sidewalks.

Flowers—Bought in a pot or planter of some sort from the nearest Home Depot or Lowe’s store. Require watering; but degree of shade and life cycle of a certain flower . . . what’s that?

Vegetables—WHEN we eat them with dinner, they come straight from the market (usually in a can or a frozen back, right?). Of course, being from Indiana, I was raised on corn, green beans, peas, etc. Don’t give me any of that “foo-foo California vegetables” and stuff—like asparagus and such that my wife, native Southern California girl that she is, just LOVES! And growing them? Fo’get ‘bout it!
Fruits—Peaches, oranges and apples are an easy to think of since the fruit is right there hanging off the tree for the taking, BUT starting from scratch, who has the time and patience to MAINTAIN these bad boys?

The Seasons—Spring, Summer, Fall and Winter, right? But what about “zones” for differences in climate and environment across the U.S.? I have no idea EXCEPT that palm trees seem to do really well in Southern California!

Gardening Tools—A spade? That’s either a little hand shovel or it’s a type of symbol when playing cards. . . as mentioned above, my “tool” knowledge consisted of the lawn mower, a “weed eater” and a pair of gloves. Not anymore!

THE AFTER PICTURE:

Grass & Lawn care—Lawns tend to be one of the most labor intensive and repetitive jobs in your landscaping endeavors. By the way, most lawns are a mixture of grass types, and allows for the ‘ol “survival” of the fittest to take place. Reducing your lawn area by using different types of ground cover or flower beds will provide some enhanced beauty and lessen the overall work load! Ground cover is foliage that applies to many types of plants. Though many different kinds for different uses, they all tend to spread horizontally very rapidly often by vining or creeping plants.

Flowers—There are several types of flowers to plan into your “patch” but one of the “regular favorites” is annuals because they bloom so fully, and the amazing color. The essence of an annual is that it germinates from a seed, growing into a mature plant that flowers, then sets its seed and finally dies. All of this happens in a single growing season. I also know now that “deadheading” is when you remove the fading flowers so that you prevent the seed formation and the bulbs will keep flowering!

Vegetables—When planning a vegetable garden, like my wife and I are currently doing, we have learned to focus on two things: 1.) creating a rich, abundant soil and 2.) spacing plants in beds instead of rows. Growing plants together will allow them to shade the ground, reducing evaporation from the soil and discouraging weeds. Also keep in mind that you don’t want to have to recruit an “army of workers” come harvest time! Planning and organizing your goals with regards to vegetables will help create a fun and enticing experience with less “back breaking” chores to upkeep!

Fruits—I have learned what one of the MOST FRIENDLY types of fruits a weekend gardener, like us, can grow is . . . Do you know what it is? Its blueberries! Why? Because they require very little pruning and that pruning needs very little skill to accomplish. Just my cup of tea—low maintenance and a hearty enough fruit to survive my inexperience and low skill level!

The Seasons—Originally I only thought of “gardening” when it came to Springtime and all the new life to enjoy—the flowers blooming, the bees working their way from one to the next, sunshine and fresh air! Not the case! Little did I know or even think about was the fact that you can do some “good work” all year long that will enable your garden to flourish and expand even more so during the “blossom” time. Also depending on which type of “zone” your in will help determine how much of a weekend gardening game plan you will want to plan, work and enjoy! Just as an FYI, check out the National Arboretum site for information about your temperate zone: http://www.usna.usda.gov/Hardzone/ushzmap.html

Gardening Tools—A spade, the traditional English digging tool, has a flat, rectangular blade, attached at an angle to a short handle. They are useful for digging up the ground with your weight behind them. Mattocks are a digging tool that looks like a thick axe head and can be used to cut roots and for difficult soil types like rocky, hard-baked clay. A bulb planter cuts out a circle of earth as you jam it into the soil. You then insert the bulb and knock the soil back in to cover.

See, it’s just a matter of learning the basics! Again, if I can do it—then so can you! And these are just the starting tools.

See? What did I tell ya? I’ve gone from a “know-nothing” farm boy and changed myself into a somewhat knowledgeable “weekend gardener” in hardly anytime at all.

Of course, this is just the beginning. I am just getting started with the planning and planting! BUT, the great thing is that this has now given my wife and my boys something to have the whole family involved with! What can we come up with as a family to grow together?!? It’s very exciting and awesome to now be able to spend some great time together outside and enjoy God’s creation by being part of the “growing” cycle.

I hope you find enjoyment and happiness in developing your own “weekend gardening” skills and knowledge. Just get started! That’s what I did, and you can too!

About the author:

Jerold Johnson is the author of the brand NEW book that spoofs Atkins and the dieting industry! In his spare time, he wanted to learn how to start turning those ugly, dead dirt spots in the backyard into something amazing–a beautiful garden spot! You can do it too! http://www.Dr-FATkins.com/garden/

Unless you are extremely fortunate, Mother Nature will not provide enough moisture during the growing season to maintain a lush, green lawn. There are always periods of dry, hot weather during the summer. Lawns that are not properly watered during these times will become stressed.

How much is enough?

Most grass plants have their roots at a depth of 4-6 inches. The soil should be moistened to this depth. Soil composition is the biggest factor when figuring out how much water is required to achieve this depth. Although it will vary from lawn to lawn, a good general rule to follow is; loam and clay soils require 1-1 ½ inches of water, while sandy soil requires ½ to ¾ of an inch of water to moisten to the same depth. Soils differ in the time it takes to achieve these levels of moisture. Clay soil is very compacted and water takes a long time to penetrate such a soil. Sandy soils on the other hand are very loosely compacted and require very little time to achieve the desired depth.

Watering time:

The time in which you water is on of the most important aspects of your success with your watering schedule. Mornings are the best time for watering. The grass has a chance to utilize the water before evaporating, and the leaf blade dries out during the day. Evenings are your 2nd best time if you are unable to water in the mornings. One of the drawbacks to watering in the evening is the leaf blade has a good chance of remaining wet throughout the night. Given the right conditions, this can lead to diseases such as Red Thread or Leaf Spot. Watering during the day is the worst time to water. Most of the water put down is lost to evaporation and the droplets can act as a magnifying glass and cause damage to the leaf blade. If this is the only time you can water, it is better than nothing, if your lawn is showing signs of drought stress.

Tips for watering:

Most lawns require 1-2 inches of water per week during the growing season. This will vary with local weather conditions. Hot, dry, windy weather creates the need for greater moisture in your lawn. An excessive thatch layer acts like a sponge and traps much of the moisture you put down. Aerating your lawn will improve water transfer to your grass’s root system. Trees in your lawn will compete aggressively for any water you put down. These areas require more moisture than other areas of your lawn. Gradually lessen your watering schedule as fall approaches. This tells your lawn to “harden off” and prepare for winter. Watering up till the first heavy frost will freeze your leaf blades causing massive damage to the cell structure of the plant. This will cause many problems come springtime.

Paul is a Certified Pesticide Applicator in the province of Alberta, Canada. He has over 15 years experience in the lawn care industry.

For more lawn care information, please visit http://www.fairyring.ca.

In recent years, sunflowers have come into their own as cutting flowers. There are many exciting new cultivars in a variety of shapes - from standard ray flowers to pompoms or fuzzy disks.

The plant sizes too range from dwarf to giant. As for colors, these too go well beyond the standard sunny yellow into white, lemon, bicolors, and even dusky burgundy.

Cut sunflowers are expensive to buy, so if you have the space, it’s well worth the effort to grow your own.

Unique sunflower cultivars to grow:

Many of the newer sunflower cultivars are pollenless, which makes them perfect for cutting and bringing into the house.

Here are some of my favorites:

• ‘Ring of Fire’: An AAS (All-America-Selections) winner with striking 5-inch wide pollenless flowers; bi-coloured petals in dark red around a chocolate brown center taper off to golden yellow tips. Grows 4 to 5 feet tall; late-blooming.
• Sunflower ‘Claret’: An excellent cutting sunflower that keeps its intense velvet burgundy color in the summer sun. Main stem grows 6 feet tall; produces side-shoots with lots of blooms.
• ‘Eversun’: A deep yellow, early-blooming pollenless type with big 10- to 12-inch ray flowers around a dark brown disk; flowers produced on one main stem.
• Sunflower ‘Teddy Bear’: I’m generally not a fan of overbred flowers, but I’ve fallen in love with the sheer zaniness of this one. Has soft, fluffy, pompom heads that make handsome cut flowers; 2 to 3 feet tall with lots of flowers per plant. A perfect plant for a children’s garden (and anyone who is young at heart). Does well in containers too.
• ‘Giant Sungold’ Sunflower: At 5 feet in height with lots of flower-bearing branches, this is a taller version of ‘Teddy Bear’.

For more information, visit garden writer Yvonne Cunnington’s sunflower page at http://www.flower-gardening-made-easy.com/growing-sunflowers.html | For more information on growing sunflower from seed, go to http://www.flower-gardening-made-easy.com/sunflowers-from-seed.html | Yvonne is the author of the book Clueless in the Garden: A Guide for the Horticulturally Helpless.

Lilacs are exceptionally easy to transplant. I have transplanted many lilac bushes from the original bushes that my grandmother planted on our Wisconsin dairy farm 70 years ago. Early spring until late spring, from when the lilacs develop buds until they actually have small leaves, is the best time to transplant. If you have lilacs growing in your yard — or if you have a friend who has lilacs — and you would like to start some new lilac bushes, here’s how:

1. Decide where you want to transplant the lilac bush or bushes.

2. Dig a hole that’s about one foot deep by one foot across for each bush you want to transplant.

3. Dig up a lilac shoot from somewhere around the main bush. Lilacs spread by runners. Use a shovel to dig up the shoot because you are going to have to cut off the runner, and a trowel will not be tough enough to do the job. Choose a shoot that is approximately 8 to 14 inches high. Smaller shoots that are only a few inches high will take a very long time to mature to the point where they will have flowers. Larger shoots seem to take a longer time to recover from being transplanted before they start to grow well. Do not worry about how much root you are getting with the shoot. You will not be able to take all of the root since the roots are all connected.

4. Put the shoot in a bucket of water if you are not going to transplant it immediately so that it will not dry out. If you are going to transplant it immediately, carry it to the hole you have dug and set it in the hole.

5. Center the shoot in the hole and fill in with dirt. Leave a three or four inch depression around the shoot so you will have a reservoir for water.

6. Water your new lilac bush with a couple of gallons of water. Continue watering the bush several times a week for the rest of the season to ensure that it has a good start. From what I have observed, lilacs seem to be quite drought resistant, although like any plant, tree or bush, they will grow more if they have plenty of water. In subsequent years, water your new lilac bush from time to time, especially if rain is in short supply.

Note: I have noticed that it takes 4 or 5 years for the new bushes to grow enough to start producing flowers, although bushes that I transplanted from small shoots only a few inches high are taking longer than that.

********************

About the Author

LeAnn R. Ralph is the author of the books “Christmas in Dairyland (True Stories from a Wisconsin Farm” (trade paperback 2003); “Give Me a Home Where the Dairy Cows Roam” (trade paperback 2004); “Preserve Your Family History” (e-book 2004). Sign up for the free monthly newsletter, Rural Route 2 News — http://ruralroute2.com

(ARA) – Choosing the right floor for your home is a big decision. It sets the tone for the whole interior of your house, and is the foundation for everything else you put in a room. Your choice should fit not only the way you want your home to look, but also the way your family lives.

“When making a decision about flooring, keep in mind such factors as design options, comfort, warmth, safety and maintenance,” says Piera Marotto of Forbo Linoleum, Inc. “And don’t forget you can have fun with color!”

Each family is unique and will have different demands and expectations for their flooring choice. A large family with kids will have a different set of needs than a retired couple. Pet owners will have particular requirements as well. Allergy and asthma sufferers will need to keep a clean and dust free environment.

For households that have light traffic, carpet is one option. It is an attractive addition to a room and the color choices are virtually unlimited. It is however, high maintenance — regular vacuuming and shampooing are mandatory, and stains are a constant worry.

Hardwood floors are a classic choice for many homes, and they work with most kinds of décor. However, they are sensitive to climate changes and may expand and contract throughout the year. They are also susceptible to water damage and need constant maintenance. These kinds of floors can also be quite cool in the wintertime.

A flooring choice that has a lot more flexibility is Marmoleum. Made mainly from organic materials, it is an environmentally friendly surface that is easy to maintain and is enhanced by time. Exposure to the air serves to increase its durability, yet it remains a comfortable and warm surface on which to walk.

“Homeowners today want a flooring product that is easy to clean, comfortable to live with and one that looks great too,” says Marotto. “Marmoleum is an exciting alternative.”

Cleaning involves just the occasional dust and damp mopping. Unlike with other surfaces, muddy footprints and other stains don’t sink in. They can be easily wiped off with a damp cloth.

Not only is Marmoleum practical, it can enhance any interior design style from retro to modern to country. Available in sheet or tiles, it can be customized with decorative border and corner pieces. Colors range from solids to cubed or spattered effects and can be mixed in unlimited ways. Some of the color palettes offered include mixed greens, rhythmic blues, grey-dations, sunsets boulevard, and neutral color collaborators.

“If you can imagine it, you can create it,” adds Marotto. “Have fun with it!”

For more information about Marmoleum, or to find the dealer nearest you, log on to www.themarmoleumstore.com or call (866) MARMOLEUM.

Courtesy of ARA Content

About the author:

Courtesy of ARA Content